Have you ever finished knitting a beautiful sweater, only to realize the fit isn't quite what you imagined? Maybe the sleeves are too long, the body is too oversized, or the length just doesn't feel right.
One of my favorite things about knitting is that we have the ability to create garments that fit our bodies exactly how we like them. But with so many beautiful patterns out there (and trust me, Instagram has been tempting me with ALL the new fall patterns!), it can be difficult to know which size to knit.
That's where magic numbers come in!
In my latest Where We Knit podcast, I'm talking all about finding your knitting magic numbers, sharing what's currently on my needles, and highlighting a few of my favorite things.
What Are Knitting Magic Numbers?
I first heard the term magic numbers from Andrea Mowry several years ago, and I thought it was genius! Essentially, your magic numbers are the measurements that consistently give you the fit you love in your hand-knit garments.
I recently pulled about a dozen sweaters out of my closet and tried them all on, paying close attention to the ones I reach for most often. I measured the bust circumference, body length, and sleeve length of each sweater, and something interesting happened. I started noticing the same numbers appearing over and over again!
I've had people ask me how I always seem to knit sweaters that fit me so well, and this is my secret. I know the measurements that work for my body, and I try not to stray too far from them. Of course, everyone's body is different, and we all have our own preferences when it comes to fit, drape, and style. That's the beauty of knitting! We can customize our garments to suit exactly what we like.
Understanding Positive Ease
Before I share my numbers, let's talk about positive ease.
Positive ease is simply the difference between your actual bust measurement and the finished circumference of your sweater. For example, my bust measures approximately 35 inches. If I knit a sweater with a finished bust circumference of 42 inches, that gives me 7 inches of positive ease.
Some people love a really oversized sweater, while others prefer something more fitted. Personally, I don't love a ton of extra fabric. I'm also fairly short-waisted, so the length of my sweaters makes a big difference in how they look and feel on me.
After measuring all those sweaters, here are the magic numbers I discovered for myself:
Bust circumference: 35 inches
Preferred finished bust: 38–45 inches
Preferred positive ease: 4–10 inches
Body length from underarm: 10.5–13 inches
Sleeve length from underarm: 14–18 inches
I've discovered that around 11 inches of positive ease is really my maximum. Anything beyond that tends to feel a little too oversized for my liking.
And remember, these are MY numbers. Yours might look completely different!
How to Find Your Own Magic Numbers
Here's what I recommend doing.
First, head to your closet and pull out a handful of sweaters that you absolutely love wearing. They don't even have to be hand-knit! If you have a store-bought sweater that fits perfectly, use that.
Try each one on and pay attention to what you love about it. Is it the length? The way the sleeves fall? The amount of room around the bust?
Then grab a measuring tape and start recording those measurements.
Measure your bust. I like to do this while wearing a lightweight T-shirt or tank top.
Measure the finished bust circumference of each of your favorite sweaters.
Calculate the positive ease by subtracting your bust measurement from the finished sweater circumference.
Measure the body length and sleeves. I measure both from the underarm.
Look for similarities. You might be surprised how often the same measurements show up!
Once you have your numbers, keep them in your phone or knitting notebook. The next time you find a pattern you love, you'll have a much better idea of which size will give you your preferred fit.
One thing I also want to mention is construction. A raglan sweater, a drop-shoulder sweater, and a circular-yoke sweater are all going to fit a little differently. Yarn choice also plays a role, especially when it comes to drape. But even with those differences, I've found that my magic numbers stay pretty consistent.
A Few Sweaters That Helped Me Find My Perfect Fit
Let me share a few examples from my own closet!
The Felix Pullover
My Felix Pullover by Amy Christoffers is one of those classic sweaters I wear all winter long. It has approximately 3–4 inches of positive ease, a 12-inch body length, and 17.5-inch sleeves. I love wearing it over a simple white T-shirt or a button-down shirt. It's comfortable, classic, and just the right fit for me.
The No Frills Sweater
Oh, how I love my No Frills Sweater by PetiteKnit! This is one of my absolute favorites, and I already have yarn set aside to knit another one. The finished bust circumference is 42 inches, the body length is 10.5 inches, and the sleeves are 18 inches. Those sleeves are just a touch longer than I usually prefer, but I can easily fold the ribbing up once. I'm pretty particular about sleeve length because I love to cook and entertain. I don't want my sleeves getting wet or dirty, or hanging too close to the stove!
The Frankie Sweater
I've knit two Frankie Sweaters, both in the exact same size. They have a finished bust circumference of 44 inches, giving me approximately 9 inches of positive ease. The body length is 11.5 inches, and the sleeves are 14 inches. That's on the roomier end of what I like, but I absolutely love the fit. What's interesting is that I used different yarn blends for the two sweaters, so they have slightly different drapes even though the measurements are nearly identical. It's a great example of how much yarn choice can affect a finished garment!
The Esther Jacket
My Esther Jacket by PetiteKnit has a finished bust circumference of 46 inches, giving me 11 inches of positive ease. That's really my limit! But because of the construction and style of the jacket, I still love wearing it.
And that's something important to remember. Your magic numbers are a guide, not a rule you can never break.
What's on My Needles?
Now, you know I can't have a podcast without talking about what's on my needles!
I've been knitting like a crazy person lately, and I have several projects I'm really excited about.
The Sk8ter Hat
I am absolutely loving the Sk8ter Hat by Max the Knitter! It's a fingering-weight hat with such an interesting construction. You start with a circular cast-on, work increases and short rows, and finish with a folded brim. I knit one for my son Bennett using Brooklyn Tweed Peerie, and I already have more color combinations in mind.
One combination I'm especially dreaming about is Fiber MacGyver Shaniko Fingering in warm, complementary colors. I've used a similar combination in my Moana Hat, and I think it would be beautiful in the Skater Hat. This is one of those patterns that might seem a little intimidating at first, but once you understand the construction, it all starts to make sense!
The Midge Sweater
I'm also working on my Midge Sweater using Fiber MacGyver Shaniko Sport. I'm hoping to have it finished in time for Rhinebeck, the New York Sheep and Wool Festival! The construction is really interesting. You knit the body and sleeves separately and then join them together while working the raglan shaping. It's definitely going to require some concentration, but I'm excited to see it all come together.
The Smultron Crewneck Sweater
I've also discovered a new-to-me designer, Maria Montzka in Sweden. I'm knitting her Smultron crewneck design, and I am so impressed by the thoughtful construction. The shoulder shaping, the finishing details, the way everything comes together, it's just beautifully designed.
The Cozy Classic Raglan
For our local Jessie Maed knit-along at Dandelion Fiber, I decided to finally cast on the Cozy Classic Raglan. I'm using a denim-blue marled wool-and-cotton blend that's been sitting in my stash. It's not what I would consider a luxury yarn, but I really love how it's knitting up! My goal is for this sweater to feel almost like a favorite sweatshirt. A little oversized, but not too oversized.
A Few of My Favorite Things
If you've watched my podcast before, you know I love ending each episode with three of my favorite things. Sometimes they're knitting-related, sometimes they're not!
This time, I'm sharing a few things I've been enjoying lately.
I love having a good way to keep my knitting needles and tools organized, and these needle cases are such a practical accessory.
Biodance Bio-Collagen Real Deep Masks
A little something outside the knitting world! I've been enjoying these skincare masks as a bit of self-care.
With the cooler fall weather arriving here in Minneapolis, I've been loving this cozy vegetarian chili. It's filled with ingredients like quinoa, black beans, tomatoes, and butternut squash. Perfect for a chilly day!
And I also want to give a little shout-out to my wonderful colleagues. The people I work alongside make such a difference in my life, and I'm incredibly grateful for them.
Happy knitting!
Kristen
